The 11 Most Common Types of Perms to Choose From

When you hear the word ‘perm’, what sort of images come to mind? If you’re picturing the tight, round perms of the 1970s, you might be relieved to hear that perms have come a long way since those days!

In fact, there are many different types of perms available today, and stylists can use different techniques to create anything from loose waves to spirals and corkscrew curls.

So when you’re considering a perm, it’s important to choose the right perm for your face shape, hair type, hair length, and your hair’s texture. You also need to know how to look after your perm properly, so it will stay looking fabulous for longer. 

To help you decide, here’s our guide to the most common types of perms, including information on what a perm is and how long a perm will last, plus answers to your most important questions about perms. 

What Is a Perm?

A perm (or permanent wave) is a way of altering the structure of your hair to create waves or curls. 

Perms have been popular since the late 1800s, with new styles and techniques making them trendy again every few years. Modern types of perms can offer you a whole range of different looks to choose from, from tight pin curls to soft waves. 

Most perms will generally last several months, but the exact time varies depending on the type of perm and the length of your hair.

How Does a Perm Work?

The perming process uses chemicals, and sometimes heat, to change the texture and shape of your hair strands. 

An acidic or alkaline perm solution is applied to your hair, weakening the bonds that create its natural texture. The hair is then molded around perm rods, which will also be heated if an acid perm solution is being used. 

Finally, a neutralizer chemical is applied to bring the hair’s pH back to normal and the bonds reform in the rolled shape, which creates the curls or waves.

How Is a Perm Done?

All perms use the same basic process but the type of rollers used will vary depending on the look you choose. Small rods will create tighter curls, while large spongy rollers can be used to create volumized hair with loose, beachy waves.

Different styles of perms use different chemical solutions and some types of perms need the addition of heat as well.

Pros and Cons of Permed Hair

A volumizing perm will give your hair added body and movement. The curls, coils, or waves are easy to style and make limp hair look much thicker and more vibrant. This can help you to feel more confident about your hair, especially if it’s naturally thin.

However, although modern perms don’t damage hair as much as they used to, the process often uses harsh chemicals and can weaken your hair strands. This leaves your hair prone to damage and breaking.

As your hair grows, the roots will come through with your natural hair texture so you will need to repeat the perm process every 2-6 months to maintain your look.

Different Types of Perms You Can Get

Modern perms don’t look like the tight, voluminous perms of the 70s and 80s. Nowadays, different techniques are available that create very different looks, so you’re sure to find a perm that suits you.

1. Spiral Perm

Spiral perms create very curly hair with a corkscrew-like appearance. The hair is wound tightly onto small rods and you can mix up the look of the spiral perm by varying the size of the perm rods across your hair.

Your hair needs to be at least 8 inches long if you want to get a spiral perm, and ideally, you should only have a spiral perm on very healthy hair because the chemicals involved are very strong. 

This type of perm is great for creating bouncy curls which should last up to six months. 

2. Body Wave Perm

Body wave perms use larger rods than the spiral perm, creating wavy hair that’s full of volume. This gives a beautifully natural look which is why a body wave perm is one of the most popular types of perm these days.

The body wave perm doesn’t need much maintenance and is great for naturally straight hair that has trouble holding a curl. It’s also ideal for adding movement and volume to thin hair. Your body wave perm will generally last between three and five months.

3. Digital Perm

A digital perm is a fairly new kind of perm, created in Japan, that is also known as a ‘hot perm’. It combines less harsh chemicals with infrared heat to create loose, natural waves. It works well on very straight hair, but digital perms aren’t offered in every salon.

This process takes several hours to complete, and the results can last up to a year.

4. Beach Wave Perm

A beach wave perm will create loose waves and a natural-looking hair texture that is perfect for creating fuss-free, messy hairstyles. 

Soft spongy rollers are used instead of traditional perm rods to create gorgeous waves that should last around four months. The beach wave perm is fairly low maintenance but you will need to use high-quality hair products to stop it from looking frizzy.

5. Pin Curl Perm

If you have fairly short hair, the pin curl perm could be the ideal perm for you. It uses a combination of pins and curlers to give tight curls that add bounce and movement to your locks. The tightness of the curls will depend on the size of the curlers used, so smaller rollers will create tighter curls.

A pin curl perm uses chemicals that are less harsh than some other perms, and it will usually last around three to six months. 

6. Root Perm

A root perm focuses on the roots of the hair to add natural-looking body volume and improve your hair’s natural movement. This is ideal if you want to touch up your hair while your current perm is growing out, or if the ends of your hair have been damaged by previous perms or coloring.

Root perms are fairly gentle compared to some other perms but the results of a root perm only last around a month. 

7. Stack Perm

A stack perm has straight hair at the top and curls in the middle and at the bottom of the hair. This daring look works really well on straight hair and can give fantastic volume. If you like the idea of a stack perm but want something less dramatic, you can create a more natural look by varying the size of rods used. 

This type of perm doesn’t need much care apart from regular conditioning treatments and the curls will last up to five months.

8. Multi-Textured Perm

A multi-textured perm uses a mix of different sized rods to give a natural-looking mix of tight and loose curls. Your hair will look very bouncy and textured, and it’s best suited to medium to long hair as the curls will shorten your hair quite a lot.

A multi-textured perm should last a few months depending on the curl variations you choose. 

9. Spot or Partial Perm

A spot or partial perm creates waves or curls in one part of your hair, which can help to create a more balanced, uniform look on naturally curly hair. Your hair stylist will be able to choose perm rods that suit your natural curl and hair texture to give a natural look.

A partial perm or spot perm is very low maintenance but you might need to have the curls touched up more often than with other types of perms.

10. Volumizing Perm

This kind of perm creates loose curls and volume rather than the tight curls that spiral perms achieve. This is done by removing the perm rods before the neutralizing chemical is applied, instead of applying the chemical while the perm rods are still in place. This allows the curls to relax a little before the bonds re-form to give luscious, natural-looking volume.

Volumizing perms work well on fairly short hair as well as long hair, but it isn’t a long-lasting technique. You can expect a volumizing perm to last around six weeks.

11. Straight Perm

Unlike the other perms in this list, a straight perm or reverse perm removes natural curls from your hair. A strong alkaline solution is applied to your hair and it is then washed and straightened with a hot iron. Finally, a neutralizing chemical is applied to keep your hair looking straight.

A straight perm will last around four to six months but the process can be very damaging. When you’ve had a straight perm, it’s really important to avoid styling your hair with heat and to use high-quality hair care products to look after your locks.

Types of Perms for Guys

The length and volume of your hair will affect the way each individual perm style looks on you, so it’s a good idea to ask your stylist to recommend which perm would suit you best. Some of the most popular perms for men are the pin curl, spiral perms, and body wave perms. Spot perms or partial perms are also great for giving naturally curly hair a more uniform look.

Post-Perm Care Tips

It’s vital to avoid washing your hair for at least three days after a perm as exposure to water can change the tightness of your curls. 

Be sure to choose shampoos and conditioners that are specially formulated to minimize frizz and add moisture. And a perm removes moisture from your hair, so regular deep conditioning treatments and leave-in conditioners will be vital. 

You should also use a wide-toothed comb or special detangling brush rather than a brush to detangle your locks, and also avoid using curling irons or other hot styling tools. 

Your stylist is the expert so follow their perm after-care instructions to the letter to keep your curls looking fabulous.

Hot Perms vs. Cold Perms: Which One Is Better?

A cold perm is the traditional perm process that uses an alkaline solution and plastic rods or rollers. A hot perm is similar but uses an acidic solution on softer perm rollers and also introduces infrared heat to the hair. So which perm is better, acid or alkaline?

Cold perms (alkaline perm) tend to give tighter, more defined curls compared to the looser, softer curls created by hot perms (acid perm). Hot perms usually take longer than cold perms and can be more expensive, however, the effects also last longer.

A hot perm also tends to give better results on coarse hair or very straight hair, while fine hair tends to react better to cold perms.

Types of Perms FAQs

Still unsure about the different types of perms? Here are some of the questions we get asked most often:

Can a Perm Look Natural?

Modern perming techniques give a much more natural look than the tight curls of perms in the 70s and 80s. If you want a softer, more natural-looking curl, a root perm could suit your needs but bear in mind that root perms don’t always last as long as other perms.

Do Perms Make You Look Younger?

A perm won’t exactly make you look younger, but it can give your hair volume and improve the way it looks. And when you feel good about your hair, that can give you greater self-confidence and a more positive outlook on life.

Can You Perm Colored Hair or Dye It After?

You can choose to perm hair first or color your hair first. The order doesn’t matter much but it’s not recommended to do both treatments at the same time. That’s because both processes will dry out your hair, so it’s safer to either dye or perm your hair and then wait a month or so before the second process.

Whichever order you choose, it’s important to discuss your plans with your stylist before going ahead with your color or perm.

How Long Does a Perm Last?

Most perms will last three to six months depending on your hair length, its natural texture, and how you care for your hair.

Softer, looser perms like a body wave don’t tend to last as long as tighter perms like a pin curl perm. The digital perm lasts the longest and could even last up to a year with proper care.

Do Perms Damage Your Hair?

Applying chemicals like a perming solution always carries a certain risk of damaging your hair, but modern perming techniques are much less damaging than the perm styles that were popular in the 70s and 80s. If you visit an experienced hairstylist and follow a good aftercare routine, the damage to your hair should be minimal.

Digital perms use milder chemicals so if you’re wondering which perm is least damaging, this could be the best option. And you shouldn’t find that perms cause hair loss if you visit a professional hairstylist who has plenty of experience in perming hair.

Do Perms Help Thin Hair?

A volumizing perm is a great way to add volume and movement to thin and fine hair.

If your hair is in good condition, the perming process shouldn’t be a problem. But if your hair is dry and prone to breakage, it’s better to avoid perms until your hair is in better condition. So if you decide to go ahead with a perm, which perm is best for thin hair?

A spot perm or partial perm can give your thin and fine hair a boost, by adding body in some areas without exposing all of your hair to chemicals. 

How Do You Prepare for a Perm?

Before you get a perm, it’s important to consider your hair’s condition and any previous hair treatments that you have had.

If you have colored your hair in the last few years, the effects can linger in your hair strands and could affect your perm. And if your hair is dry or damaged, it would be safer to delay your perm while you strengthen and moisturize your locks.

Your stylist will be able to recommend ways to prepare your hair with conditioning treatments to help your perm look its best.

How Often Should You Wash Permed Hair?

Overwashing can affect the shape of your curls and shorten the life of your perm. So you should avoid washing it completely for the first few days and after that, you should only wash it once a week. 

How Much Does a Perm Cost?

The cost of a perm will vary depending on the salon you visit and the type of perm that you choose as well as the length and texture of your hair. On average, you should expect to pay between $50 and $250.

How Long Does a Perm Take?

Most perms take two to three hours but some techniques, such as a digital perm, can take around six hours to complete.

Can You Learn How to Perm Your Hair at Home?

Perms use harsh chemicals that can seriously damage your hair if they are used incorrectly. It might be tempting to try a home perm, but it’s much safer to leave all types of perms to professional stylists. The result will look much better and you’ll have less risk of damaged hair.

How Do I Know If a Perm Will Suit Me?

When you’re choosing a perm, you’ll need to consider your face shape and features, the length of your hair, and your hair’s natural texture.

Looser perms like beach waves and body waves suit all face shapes, while stack perms could make your face look wider. Perms with more volume fill out the sides of the face, which generally suits oval and heart-shaped faces.

Looking at pictures of different types of perms and discussing your desired perm style with your stylist will help you to make your choice.

Conclusion

Now you know all about the different types of perms and how to care for your perm. If you’re still not sure which type of perm to choose, your hair stylist will be able to give you more advice on the best perm for you.

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